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'''Essaouira''' ({{lang-ar|الصويرة}}; [[Berber language|Berber]]: '''Taṣṣort''' or '''Amegdul'''; [[Portuguese language|Portuguese]]: '''Mogador''') is a [[city]] in the western [[Morocco|Moroccan]] region of [[Marrakesh-Safi|Meṛṛakec-Asfi]], on the Atlantic coast.

==Name and etymology==
The name of the city is usually spelled ''Essaouira'' in Latin script, and الصويرة in Arabic script. Both spellings represent its name in [[Moroccan Arabic]], ''ṣ-Ṣwiṛa''. This is the diminutive. On the formation of diminutive nouns in Moroccan Arabic, see R.S. Harrell, ''A short reference grammar of Moroccan Arabic'' (Washington, D.C., 1962), p. 81.</ref> (with definite article) of the noun ''ṣuṛ'' which means "wall (as round a yard, city), rampart". Hence, the spelling of the name in Arabic script according to the classical pronunciation is السويرة ''al-Suwayrah'' (with ''sīn'' not ''ṣād'').

In the [[Berber language]], which is spoken by a sizeable proportion of the city's inhabitants, it is called "'''Taṣṣort'''", meaning 'the small fortress'.

Until the 1960s, Essaouira was generally known by its Portuguese name, ''Mogador''. This name is probably a corruption of the older Berber name ''Amegdul'' أمقدول, which is mentioned by the 11th-century geographer [[al-Bakri|al-Bakrī]].<ref>Mac Guckin de Slane (ed. and transl.), ''Description de l'Afrique septentrionale par el-Bekri'' (Alger 1913), Arabic text p. 86 مرسى امقدول ''marsá Ameqdūl'' "the port of Ameqdūl", translation p. 175 ''Amegdoul'' (''Amegdul''), with footnote: "Le tombeau ou chapelle de Sîdi Megdoul est situé tout auprès de Mogador; ce dernier est une altération de ''Megdoul''".</ref>

==Samuel Foote==
collection given to Doctor [[Archibald Bruce]] of Columbia University, New York City. 

==History==
[[Archaeological]] research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since [[prehistoric]] times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harbor protected against strong marine winds.

===Antiquity===
Essaouira has long been considered as one of the best anchorages of the Moroccan coast. The [[Ancient Carthage|Carthaginian]] navigator [[Hanno the Navigator|Hanno]] visited in the 5th century BC and established the trading post of Arambys.

Around the end of the 1st century BCE or early 1st century CE, the [[Berber people|Berber]] king [[Juba II]] established a [[Tyrian purple]] factory, processing the [[murex]] and purpura shells found in the [[intertidal]] rocks at Essaouira and the [[Iles Purpuraires]]. This [[dye]] colored the purple stripe in the [[toga]]s worn by the [[Roman Senate|Senators]] of [[Roman Empire|Imperial Rome]].

A Roman villa was excavated on [[Mogador island]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=CX7zx5C1bf4C&pg=PA243 ''Marokko'' Ingeborg Lehmann, Rita Henss p.243]</ref> A Roman vase was found as well as coinage from the 3rd century CE. Most of the artifacts are now visible in the [[Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum]] and the [[Rabat Archaeological Museum]].

===Early modern period===
[[File:Sidi Mogdul resting place.jpg|thumb|Resting place of [[Sidi Mogdoul]] in Essaouira.]]
During the [[Middle Ages]], a [[Muslim]] saint named [[Sidi Mogdoul]] was buried in Essaouira, probably giving its origin to the name "Mogador".

====Portuguese establishment (1506–10)====
{{main|Morocco-Portugal relations}}
In 1506, the king of Portugal, D. [[Manuel I of Portugal|Manuel I]], ordered a fortress to be built there, named [[Castelo Real|Castelo Real de Mogador]]. Altogether, the Portuguese are documented to have seized six Moroccan towns and built six stand-alone fortresses on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, between the river Loukos in the north and the [[Sous River|river of Sous]] in the south. Four of them only had a short duration: [[Graciosa fortress|Graciosa]] (1489), [[Sao Joao da Mamora|São João da Mamora]] (1515), [[Castelo Real|Castelo Real of Mogador]] (1506–10) and [[Souira Guedima|Aguz]] (1520–25). Two became permanent urban settlements: [[Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gué]] (modern [[Agadir]], founded in 1505–06), and [[Mazagan]], founded in 1514–17. Following the 1541 [[Fall of Agadir]], the Portuguese had to abandon most of their settlements between 1541 and 1550, although they were able to keep [[Ceuta]], [[Tangier]] and Mazagan.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=S7dUv-1Ql2oC&pg=PA352 ''City walls: the urban enceinte in global perspective'', James D. Tracy, p.352]</ref>

The [[fortress]] of Castelo Real of Mogador fell to the local resistance of the [[Regraga]] fraternity four years after its establishment, in 1510.

During the 16th century, powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar and [[molasses]] and as an anchorage for [[pirate]]s.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=oQmVAYBsX-AC&pg=PA338 Notes to ''The History and Description of Africa and of the Notable Things Therein'' by Leo Africanus p.338]</ref>

====De Razilly expedition (1629)====
{{further|France-Morocco relations}}
France was involved in an early attempt to colonize Mogador in 1629. As [[Cardinal Richelieu|Richelieu]] and [[Père Joseph]] were attempting to establish a colonial policy, Admiral [[Isaac de Razilly]] suggested they occupy Mogador in 1626, which he had reconnoitered in 1619. The objective was to create a base against the Sultan of [[Marrakesh]] and asphyxiate the harbour of [[Safi, Morocco|Safi]].

He departed for [[Salé]] on 20 July 1629 with a fleet composed of the ships ''Licorne'', ''Saint-Louis'', ''Griffon'', ''Catherine'', ''Hambourg'', ''Sainte-Anne'', ''Saint-Jean''. He bombarded the city the Salé, destroyed three corsair ships, and then sent the ''Griffon'' under Captain Treillebois to Mogador. The men of Razilly saw the fortress of Castelo Real in Mogador and landed 100 men with wood and supplies on Mogador island, with the agreement of Richelieu. After a few days, however, the ''Griffon'' reembarked the colonists and departed to rejoin the fleet in Salé.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=iJQ3AAAAIAAJ&pg=PA549 ''E.J. Brill's first encyclopaedia of Islam, 1913–1936, Volume 9'' by Martijn Theodoor Houtsma, p.549]</ref>

After these expeditions, France signed a treaty with [[Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik II|Abd el-Malek II]] in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as "[[Capitulation (treaty)|capitulations]]": preferential tariffs, the establishment of a Consulate, and freedom of religion for French subjects.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=KPM3AAAAIAAJ&pg=PA259 ''France in the age of Louis XIII and Richelieu'' by Victor Lucien Tapié p.259]</ref>

===Foundation of modern Essaouira (1760–70)===
[[File:Theodore Cornut Essaouira 1767.jpg|thumb|Map of Essaouira by [[Théodore Cornut]]. When he left in 1767, areas in pink were already built (streets are still recognizable); areas in yellow (harbour front and [[Medina quarter|medina]]) were only projected.]]
[[File:Essaouira harbour fortifications 1770.jpg|thumb|upright=2|Harbour fortifications were built by an English [[Turncoat|renegade]] named [[Ahmed el Inglizi|Ahmed El Alj]] in 1770, as described in the sculptured inscription in Arabic (right).]]
The present city of Essaouira was built during the mid-eighteenth century by the Moroccan King.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YEnq2cYMTwYC&pg=PA103&dq=history+of+Essaouira&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQr_jwkdfXAhVEtxoKHUJcB3AQ6AEILDAC#v=onepage&q=Essaouira&f=false|title=Sephardi and Middle Eastern Jewries: History and Culture in the Modern Era|last=Goldberg|first=Harvey E.|date=1996|publisher=Indiana University Press|isbn=0253210410|language=en}}</ref> [[Mohammed III of Morocco|Mohammed III]] tried to reorient his kingdom toward the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, choosing Mogador as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point to Marrakesh.<ref name="Paterson 521">[https://books.google.com/books?id=vvDVAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA521 ''The Anglo American, Volume 3'' by Alexander D. Paterson p.521]</ref> The other was to cut off trade from Agadir in the south, which had been favouring a political rival of Mohammed III, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira.<ref name="Paterson 521"/>

For 12 years, Mohammed III directed a French engineer, [[Théodore Cornut]], and several other European architects and technicians to build the fortress and city along modern lines.<ref name="Paterson 521"/><ref name="Gary">Of Essaouira: "He employed European architects to design it, one a Frenchman said to be his prisoner, and the other an Englishman, converted to Islam and known as Ahmed el-Inglizi— otherwise Ahmed the Englishman." in ''Morocco'', Dorothy Hales Gary, Baron Patrick Balfour Kinross, Viking Press, 1971, p.35</ref> Originally called "Souira" ("the small fortress"), the name became "Es-Saouira" ("the beautifully designed").

Thédore Cornut designed and built the city itself, particularly the Kasbah area, corresponding to the royal quarters and the buildings for Christian merchants and diplomats. Other parts were built by other architects, including Moroccan architects especially from Fez, Marrakesh, and Rabat. The harbour entrance, with the "Porte de la Marine", was built by an English [[Turncoat|renegade]] by the name of [[Ahmed el Inglizi]] ("Ahmed the English") or Ahmed El Alj ("Ahmed the Renegade").<ref name="Gary"/> 
Mohammed III took numerous steps to encourage the development of Essaouira including closing off the harbour of Agadir to the south in 1767 so that southern trade could be redirected through Essaouira. European communities in the northern harbour of [[Rabat]]-[[Salé]] were ordered to move to Essaouira through an ordinance of 21 January 1765.

From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the [[caravan trade]] to the world. The route brought goods from [[sub-Saharan Africa]] to [[Timbuktu]], then through the desert and over the [[Atlas mountains]] to Marrakesh. The road from Marrakesh to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the king's choice of this port among the many others along the Moroccan coast.

===Jewish presence===
{{further|Jews in Morocco}}
[[File:A Jewish house in Mogador by Darondeau 1807 1841.jpg|thumb|A Jewish house in Mogador, by [[Darondeau]] (1807–1841).]]
Mohammed III encouraged Moroccan Jews to settle in the town and handle the trade with Europe. Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter (or [[mellah]]) contains many old synagogues. The town also has a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, superseded by direct European shipping trade with sub-Saharan Africa.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=ur38Oc3EIs8C&pg=PA17 ''The Sultan's Jew: Morocco and the Sephardi World'' by Daniel J. Schroeter, pp. 17 ''ff'']</ref> Changes in trade, the founding of Israel, the resulting wars with Arab states, and the independence of Morocco all resulted in Sephardic Jews leaving the country. As of 2017, Essaouira had only three Jewish inhabitants.

===French interventions and Protectorate===
[[File:The attack of Mogador by the French fleet Serkis Diranian.jpg|thumb|''[[Bombardment of Mogador|The attack of Mogador by the French fleet]]'' in August 1844, Serkis Diranian.]]
{{main|Bombardment of Mogador|French protectorate of Morocco}}
{{unreferenced section|date=June 2014}}
Following Morocco's alliance with Algeria's [[Abd al-Qadir al-Jaza'iri|Abd-El-Kader]] against France, Essaouira was bombarded and briefly occupied by the [[French Navy]] under the [[Prince de Joinville]] on 16 August 1844, in the [[Bombardment of Mogador]], an important battle of the [[Franco-Moroccan War|First Franco-Moroccan War]].

From 1912 to 1956, Essaouira was part of the [[French protectorate of Morocco]]. Mogador was used as a base for a military expedition against Dar Anflous, when 8,000 French troops were located outside the city under the orders of Generals [[Louis Franchet d'Esperey|Franchet d'Esperey]] and Brulard. The Kasbah of Dar Anflous was taken on 25 January 1913. In 1930, brothers, [[Michel Vieuchange|Michel]] and [[Jean Vieuchange]] used Essaouira as a base before Michel set off into the [[Western Sahara]] to try to find [[Smara]].

France had an important administrative, military and economic presence. Essaouira had a Franco-Moroccan school, still visible in Derb Dharb street. Linguistically, many Moroccans of Essaouira speak French fluently today.

===Recent years===
[[File:Orson Welles Dec 2009.jpg|thumb|Bas relief of Orson Welles]]
In the early 1950s film director and actor [[Orson Welles]] stayed at the Hotel des Iles just south of the town walls during the filming of his 1952 classic version of "[[Othello]]" which contains several memorable scenes shot in the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the [[medina]].  Legend has it that during Welles' sojourn in the town he met [[Winston Churchill]], another guest at the Hotel des Iles. A bas-relief of Orson Welles is located in a small square just outside the medina walls close to the sea. Several other film directors have utilized Essaouira as a location due to the photogenic and atmospheric qualities.

Beginning in the late 1960s, Essaouira became something of a [[hippie]] hangout. 

==Geography==
[[File:Iles Purpuraires with Mogador island in the background seen from the Essaouira citadel.jpg|thumb|[[Iles Purpuraires]], with [[Mogador island]] in the background seen from the ramparts of Essaouira.]]

Essaouira is protected by a natural bay partially shielded from wave action by the [[Iles Purpuraires]].  A broad sandy beach extends from the harbour south of Essaourira, at which point the [[Oued Ksob]] discharges to the ocean; south of the discharge lies the archaeological ruin, the [[Bordj El Berod]].<ref>C.Michael Hogan, ''Mogador: promontory fort'', The Megalithic Portal, ed. Andy Burnham, 2 November 2007 [http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=17926]</ref> The [[Canary Current]] is responsible for the generally southward movement of ocean circulation and has led to enhancement of the local [[fishery]].<ref>William Adams Hance, ''The Geography of Modern Africa'', Columbia University Press, 1975 {{ISBN|0-231-03869-0}}</ref> The village of [[Diabat]] lies about five kilometres ({{convert|5|km|abbr=off|disp=output only}}) south of Essaouira, immediately south of the [[Oued Ksob]].

==Climate==
Essaouira's climate is [[Semi-arid climate|semi-arid]] (''BSk'') bordering a [[Mediterranean climate with mild temperatures year round. The gap between highs and lows is small and summers are warm while winters are mild. Annual rainfall is usually 300 to 500in}}. Essaouira's climate is akin to coastal [[Los Angeles]], specifically [[Santa Monica]] in California. Essaouira has seen considerable heating in the summer in recent years. The average summer high temperature has surpassed 30°C every year since 2013. A new record high temperature of 47°C (117°F) was set on 11 August 2013.

===Accommodation===
There are only a handful of modern purpose-built hotels within the walls of the old city.  Newer international hotels have been built along the sea front – the local planning regulations restrict buildings to 4 storeys high to help preserve the stunning views.  There are also many privately owned [[Moroccan riad|riads]], also known as ''dars'', that may be rented on a daily or weekly basis.

===Activities===

The [[medina quarter|medina]] is home to many small arts and crafts businesses, notably [[cabinet making]] and 'thuya' [[wood-carving]] (using roots of the [[Tetraclinis]] tree), both of which have been practised in Essaouira for centuries.

The fishing [[harbour]], suffering from the competition of [[Agadir]] and [[Safi, Morocco|Safi]] remains rather small, although the catches ([[sardine]]s, [[conger eel]]s) are surprisingly abundant due to the coastal [[upwelling]] generated by the powerful [[trade winds]] and the [[Canaries Current]]. Essaouira remains one of the major fishing harbours of Morocco. {{further|Fishing industry in Morocco}}

Essaouira is also renowned for its [[kitesurfing]] and [[windsurfing]], with the powerful trade wind blowing almost constantly onto the protected, almost waveless, bay. Several world-class clubs rent top-notch material on a weekly basis. The township of [[Sidi Kaouki]] is located 25&nbsp;km south of Essaouira and is becoming one of the best locations in Morocco for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.lonelyplanet.com/morocco/sidi-kaouki/introduction|title=Sidi Kaouki, Morocco – Lonely Planet|last=Planet|first=Lonely|website=Lonely Planet|access-date=13 October 2016}}</ref> There are several businesses in [[Sidi Kaouki]] which offer gear rental.

Essaouira is also a center of [[argan oil]] production. It has become a tourist attraction due to the tree-climbing goats who are unique to the region, as argan trees are the only type the goats climb.<ref>{{cite web|title=Essaouira: Home of the Argan Tree, Hardworking Berber Women, and Amusing Goats|url=http://essenceofargan.com/articles/essaouira-home-of-the-argan-tree-hardworking-berber-women-and-amusing-goats/|publisher=Essence of Argan|accessdate=18 December 2016}}</ref>

==Culture==

[[File:Gnaoua (Gnawa) musicians performing during the 2010 Gnaoua festival in the city of Essaouira, Morocco.jpg|thumb|right|Gnaoua ([[Gnawa]]) musicians performing during the 2010 [[Gnaoua World Music Festival]] in the city of Essaouira, Morocco]]
Essaouira presents itself as a city full of culture: several small art galleries are found all over the town. Since 1998, the [[Gnaoua World Music Festival|Gnaoua Festival of World Music]] is held in Essaouira, normally in the last week of June. It brings together artists from all over the world.  Although focussed on [[gnaoua]] music, it includes rock, jazz and reggae. Dubbed as the "Moroccan [[Woodstock]]" it lasts four days and attracts annually around 450,000 spectators.
== Sights ==

* Medina
* Fortifications:
** Sqala du Port
** Sqala de la Kasbah
* The most picturesque gates:
** Port de la Marine
** Bab Manjana with clocktower
* Tagart beach (with sand dunes)
* Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption church (catholic, operational)
* Sidi Mogdoul mosque
* Sidi Mogdoul lighthouse
* Ben Youssef mosque<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://morocco.falktime.com/destinations/essaouira-travel-guide/|title=Essaouira guide book|date=2018-10-05|website=Morocco.FalkTime|language=en-US|access-date=2019-05-09}}</ref>



*[https://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=753 UNESCO World Heritage site: Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador)]
*[http://www.auessaouira.ma Website of the Urban Agency of Essaouira]

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{{World Heritage Sites in Morocco}}
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[[Category:Essaouira| ]]
[[Category:Archaeological sites in Morocco]]
[[Category:Cities in Morocco]]
[[Category:Former Portuguese colonies]]
[[Category:Kingdom of the Algarve]]
[[Category:Phoenician colonies in Africa]]
[[Category:Populated places in Essaouira Province]]
[[Category:Port cities and towns on the Moroccan Atlantic Coast]]
[[Category:Provincial capitals in Morocco|Essaouira]]
[[Category:World Heritage Sites in Morocco]]