Derby Hat

‘’’Derby Hat.’’’ Black felt with satin, or satin-like material around base of crown. Not merely dirty and broken, artifact is in deplorable condition. Dates from the late 19th, early 20th century. Found in Mark and Michael’s house in Claremont, New Hampshire. 2008, c.e.

Tramp Head-Gear

The earliest tramps are depicted wearing either a straw farmers broad-brims or civil war foraging caps. The felt “slouch” enters into the picture either early or late, depending upon point-of-view. Felt is maleable, easily stylish, or easily made to conform to individual fashion.

As a trend, the Derby begins its career as a stiff, nearly indestructable head-covering. Its evolution as mass produced wearing apparel included thinner, cheaper, versions which, as well as affordability, offered a more easily manipulated shell for both crown and brim. The hat could then be punched into a variety of positions and shapes. Its form then melded a more formal travelling appearance with the styling necessary for the fads associated with the open road. Eventually, it became inextricably linked with the “Hobo” image, with mid-20th-century circus clown motifs, and with nostalgia.

History

The Bowler hat was developed in 1849 for either Edward, or William Coke by the London hatters Lock & Company of St. James. The Cokes, relatives of either the first of the second Earls of Leicester had placed an order for a close-fitting, low crowned hat that would protect gamekeepers heads from low-hanging branches while on horseback, running to hounds. The hat developed by the Bowler Brothers was strong enough to withstand being stamped on by a booted foot. The hat is known as the “Billy Coke” or “Billycock” in Norfolk, England, UK. The Bowler hat is also worn by the Quechua and Aymara women in Peru and Bolivia since the 1920s when it was introduced by British railway workers.